Sunday, February 27, 2011

Our last week......

Hi- is anybody there?? Not sure how many are still reading this stuff after 63 days. Impressed if you still are!
Dave & Pat left yesterday to move to their next home-away-from-home about 8 km. away just on the other side of Puerto Viejo. They'll be there for a week, then a few days in the San Jose area before heading home on the 7th. Their new place is awesome- a beautifully-crafted wooden house on stilts on the edge of the ocean. Gorgeous gardens and 2 lovely dogs for Dave to play with.
All of our family and friends who have visited us here have been great- fun, entertaining, funny, good sports, etc. etc. etc. and Dave & Pat were no exception to this. We had a wonderful week- mostly walking, swimming and eating and a little shopping as well. There may have been a little drinking! Very relaxing but we may have put back on all the weight we lost during the first 8 weeks!
We have had the best meals of our trip the last few days- including Dave's pasta. On Thursday evening we ate at El Refugio, a tiny restaurant, only 5 tables in total, which is tucked away in the jungle near Punta Uva. This restaurant is owned and operated by a young Argentinian couple- Soledad and Fernando. She is the hostess/waitress and he is the chef. Amazing food and warm hospitality! The menu is different every evening depending on what they get. They have the best drink of our trip so far- a caipirica- which is made of lime juice, a mashed lime, passion fruit, rum or vodka in a sugar rimmed glass. See the pic! It is their take on a local drink called the caipirinha. Good thing we didn't discover these earlier as they could be addictive.
At the Punta Uva beach (our favourite), there is a beach bar/restaurant managed by a lovely and competent young lady named Carla, who we have got to know pretty well as we are often there. (Dave & Shelley know this place!) We also met her husband, Mauritzio, from Rimini, Italy. Turns out that he, along with his brother, run an authentic Italian restaurant in Puerto Viejo. The 4 of us dedided to have dinner there on Friday evening. From the moment we walked in, we were treated royally by Mauritzio and his brother. Bruschetta (the best ever!) was on the house. They suggested their favourites for us to try instead of just one entree. Just excellent followed by homemade tiramisu and lemoncello. (How do you spell this?) Needless to say, we waddled out of there and haven't eaten since- except for Dave who grazes all day long and still keeps his boyish figure.
Today it is raining- and I mean RAINING! We are supposed to meet up with Dave & Pat at the Finca La Isla Botanical Gardens for a guided tour and tasting. So disappointed as we have been looking forward to this. We would have to wear bathing suits today!
Can't complain. We have been way for 63 days and have had 2 days of rain, including today, 3 cloudy days and the rest picture perfect sunny with blue skies. Pretty good if you ask me. It has rained quite a bit at night but that's how it should be. Easy to sleep with the rain beating down on the roof and falling through the jungle outside our windows. Boy- can it rain here! I have never seen or heard anything like it before!
We are starting to pack up today. We leave here tomorrow afternoon, have one night in San Jose and an early flight on Tuesday. After a few days with our family, we will drive home to Southampton sometime on Thursday.
I will have one or two last blogs. I have a little quiz about our guests that I will post after we get home. Just some fun at their expense!!
Here are some pictures from our time with the McCutcheon's:
Can't take these two anywhere! Good thing the beach wasn't very busy.


A cute couple at El Refugio

Our new favourite drink- a caipirica.


Enjoying the evening at cafe Viejo. Mauritzio is the cute guy in the middle!

Mauritzio's brother and his little girl, Sheri.





The tiramisu. Ian licked the dishes so he didn't miss any. Well- he wanted to......


You'll know what he was contemplating when you see the next picture!

Poor Pat! This was quite the splat from 70 feet.

Wednesday, February 23, 2011

Ramblings from Playa Chiquita

Hola, Gringos!

Joanne has briefly turned over her BLOG to the writer, at her peril.

What a wonderful place to be here in Playa Chiquita! We were dropped off by our transportation at the end of their “road” (read as pothole garden) to be met by a huggy brown couple who introduced themselves as our neighbours in Southampton.

What a fabulous, generous and good looking hostess … and her husband!  After a freshly prepared pina colada we were led down through the jungle to a deserted beach with crashing waves for some body surfing. The water was the same temperature as the air and the human body. A swimmer is certainly as one with nature.  For those who haven’t tried it, body surfing is the most efficient way to transfer sand from the beach, in your trunks, to your residence.

Back at the residence, having unloaded our swimming trunks of sand and showered off, we were ready for another pina colada followed by wine as Joanne prepared dinner. This sequence of events may not have been the best. We were treated to a sumptuous meal featuring chicken baked in an exquisite sauce reminiscent of childhood campfire experiences with flaming marsh mellows on a stick.

Speaking of swimming trunks, Ian shared with us that he had found that if you wore your underwear under your swimming trunks you can avoid chaffing. We have not known Ian  long enough to be told this.

A game of euchre in the evening put Ian and the writer in a bad mood and brought Pat and Joanne to fits of giggles, high fives and ridicule for their opponents. This may have contributed to the black mood of the men.

Next day were up early for a day at Playa (beach) Uva. ( a better quality of sand in your trunks and crevices). We then accompanied the Wheelers on a visit to several prospective rental properties for future consideration, led by a petite French real estate agent who apparently had left her leathers, whips and hand cuffs at home. Some great looking places to rent for a few weeks or months, close to the beach (sand you wouldn’t have to carry as far) , and close to the many “sodas” (local food and drink spots) in Playa Chiquita.

In the evening we went out to dinner at “Carol’s”, a small local French restaurant featuring great French named food and two screaming four year olds belonging to one of the diners. After a hour of kiddy bedlam and PO’d patrons, Ian gently, as you know Ian would, suggested to the parents of the sweeties that they rein in the little ?/*!#@’s so other people could enjoy there dinners. They got up and left. To the applause of all the other patrons, Ian, the hero, bowed and we all continued our evening in peace.

Next day we were off to Puerto Viejo, a small town separated from the Wheeler’s place by 2 km of pot holes and 10 minutes by taxi. A taxi in this country is a vehicle owned by a local who is willing to give you a ride for money. This is the best way to travel because they know where the biggest pot holes are.

We visited an animal rehabilitation centre operated by a local couple who took in animals who they brought back to health and then re-introduced them to the wild. We had the opportunity to enter the baby howler monkey cage and experience a close up encounter with these cute creatures climbing all over us. They took a particular interest in Ian who must have been recognized as a visiting relative. 

The display of local serpents was very informative. We were told that, contrary to public opinion, only a very small fraction of the local snakes are venomous. It is apparently very easy to identify which vile serpents are venomous. Only three criteria: First, a triangular shaped head; Second, the presence of vertical pupils in their eyes, and finally, the particularly painful death of their victims.

On to civilization. Puerto Viejo, and the whole area for that matter, is a throw back to the world of hippie 1960’s. Some of them obviously still living. A delightful array of quirky shops and eateries in a beach and jungle setting filled with reggae music and broken English signs. A gem of a place.  

At the first stop the writer, in a moment of seniorosity, forgot to retrieve his bank card from the local bank’s cash machine and it was eaten by the beast. The solution was to simply go into the bank and ask for the card to be returned. Having obtained the attention of the guard inside the bank door, was then necessary to remove hat AND sunglasses, (see photo). Then be subjected to a quick frisk and baton scan. A card showing one’s order in line was given and the carrier directed to a seat. After a brief wait, a garbled explanation of stupidity by the gringo and a proof of identity, the security clerk disappeared for two days. Upon his re-birth, the escaped bank card was returned and life went on. It was surprising to find that the Wheelers and the writer’s wife had not left town.

Having stopped for a while in front of a sign which advertised “Worm Bite” treatment, we followed the Wheelers into a pharmacy where most of their attention was absorbed by a bottle on the shelf labeled, “Herbal Long Sex” lotion.(see photo). Ian asked the clerk where he could buy this in bulk. There was some discussion as to how, where and when it should be applied.

We walked on through the streets of the town enjoying the sights until the “girls” ran across tables of street vendors offering an array of locally produced trinkets and beads. Ian and the writer, knowing their roles in these events, moved further up the street to wait quietly.  After several hours the “ladies”, with bags full, returned, followed by vendors who had given them gifts for buying their goods at such bargain prices.

Back at the villa, we enjoyed another pina colada (following up on the cuba libres and maragaitas in town)  and some of us had to snooze for a bit.  Followed by a pasta thing for dinner and an exciting display of gigantic insects who took a liking to the inside walls and lights. We made an attempt to “save and release” a 5 inch long, delicate and peaceful “walking stick” (see photo). Trying to encourage it into a pot for a gentle and safe release back to the wilds to return to its family, became a little tedious. Ian, with his renowned patience for things tedious, took over the task and chopped the thing into 24 pieces and swept it off the porch. Never leave your pet in Ian’s care.

Speaking of Ian and Joanne... As you would expect, Ian, after three weeks in town, could be elected mayor. Tourists, locals vendors were all “high fiving” and asking him to come to their kids’ weddings. Joanne is a wonderful cook and hostess and entertainer. It would be hard to find a nicer couple to visit. It was almost as if they liked us.

El Scribo
P.S. Ian is off washing, drying and folding my laundry as I write this.

FYI- from Ian (aka laundry guy):
Some local Southamptonites may recognize El Scribo’s twisted hyperbole and perverted take on things from Monday afternoon readings offered under the pseudynom, The Humble Scribe. “For those who have not yet made his acquaintance, be grateful.” (this is a direct quote from his wife, Pat- who by the way should be sainted)

    

We will be back on the weekend if you send us your orders - note- that is El Scribo's hand in the picture! 
  
These are the restrictions posted outside the Banco in addition to the armed guards. I like the one about no guns and sunglasses.


You should see the teeth marks!



Mr. & Mrs. El Scribo

How cute is this???


Wednesday, February 16, 2011

Another day in paradise

After a rainy Sunday and so-so Monday and Tuesday, the sun and brilliant blue skies are back. YES!!!! So off to the beach.
We had a wonderful Valentine's Day with dinner at La Casa de Carol- a French restaurant a short walk from here.


Valentine's Day dinner


The menu- the beef in chocolate was amazing!

Earlier in the day we saw them braiding palm fronds and forming hearts. Then they added mini lights- very cool.




Ian spotted this sloth on the ground on our way to the beach this morning. We were only 4 feet away from it!


We watched it make its way SLOWLY up a tree.


Monday, February 14, 2011

Our Caribbean digs

Happy Valentine's Day! Hope everyone has a wonderful day. We thought we would post some pictures of our February home. Thanks to Laura for these pics- I "borrowed" them off Facebook. They are a lot better than mine!


Arron in front of the house





Looking down the hall from living room

Kitchen


Living room


 
The covered porch

 

The interior garden- the gardener has put in lots of new plants since this picture was taken. Looks incredible now! The master bedroom and laundry room are off the garden area.

Sunday, February 13, 2011

Adios amigos!

We have our 1st rainy day today since we left home on December 27th so can't complain. It is rather nice to sit on the covered deck and listen to and watch the rain. Especially with a drink in one hand and a good book in the other. Everything is really green and lush and we even have a pool now that wasn't here before.
It is very quiet here now with just the 2 of us. We absolutely LOVED having the house full-so much fun!
Yesterday we saw more than a dozen howler monkeys from our deck- including moms with babies on their backs- and 2 toucans. Just love it. And...my camera was way downstairs so no pics.
The kids- Kris, Arron, Laura & Steve- were up bright and early on Monday morning to start their trek home. Little did they know what a day it would be! Taxi right on time at 6:30 a.m. to take them to the bus that would take them to San Jose to catch their flight. Got on bus- all seemed well until the traffic all stopped moving due to - guess what- another protest! The bus driver said there was no way they were going anywhere for a long time so... they hooked up with 2 guys from California, got off the bus with their luggage and walked throught the demonstration in blazing heat, no water and in long pants and sleeves for the flight home. After literally begging a taxi to get them to the airport and changing taxis and paying $200, they did make their flight, which left late. This meant a mad dash in the airport in Charlotte and no luggage for Kris and Laura in Toronto. But was it worth it??? 




Friday: Dave & Shelley leaving as well. It isn't the same here without you.We LOVED sharing this experience with you. 
Their driver, Fermin, who brought them here and slept over, came back for them. He also brought breakfast for all of us- including the kids who weren't here!  See below.  
 Fermin forgot his jacket here so we will meet up with him in San Jose on our way home.
We miss you Dave & Shelley- thanks, guys, for everything- you what we mean. 


Fermin brought homemade tamales for us. Cornmeal, rice, chicken or beef, vegetables wrapped in banana leaves. Just heat and serve. We froze some for Pat & Dave to try next week.

Found the best place for brunch on Saturday- we'll go back!

A picture of our house. Hard to take because we are surrounded by jungle and you can't see the house very well. The bottom floor was Dave & Shelley's place and the rest of the house is upstairs- sort of and sort of downstairs.  Actually looks better than this and is quite large.

Panama pics

This is Krissy and me on the Cost Rican side of the border- before we crossed the very fragile and scary bridge. At times we held on to each other because there were big holes in the bridge and we could see the river. Yikes!!



Our hotel in Boca. Very old and cute. Great "grand balcony" upstairs where we played euchre in the evening. Ian hasn't recovered yet from Arron making trump on a 9 and 10 of clubs- and not getting euchred. Kris & I didn't have a chance! (Ken Foucault- this reminded me of you!)

Enjoying the beautiful day with my favourite daughter.

Bananas are a huge part of the economy both in Costa Rica and Panama. Saw tons of Chiquita, Dole and DelMonte trucks loaded with bananas and banana "farms" with compounds where the workers live. The bananas are covered for protection with turquoise plastic bags until the flower growing from the tree dies- then they are ripe enough to pick. This pic was taken on the harbour in Panama. 



Our guide- he is a whole other story- spotted the starfish when we were cruising around the islands. He hung over the edge of the boat- we were tempted to give him a little (or even a BIG) push- and he picked it up for a picture.


Arron snorkelling. He also had a scuba lesson- something he had always wanted to do- though the 3 of us chose not to join him! He LOVED it!

Some of the tiny frogs at Reed Frog beach. The children catch them in leaves and charge $1 to look at them. We wished we had dollars to give to all of them- very sweet.

Saturday, February 12, 2011

Boca del Toro, Panama

From the pen of Ian:
So on Friday the 4th, Kristen, Arron, Joanne and Ian headed off to Boca del Toro, Panama on a 2 day package provided by Adventuras Terra. Rudely, we left Dave and Shelley in the company of Steve and Laura, two couples who had never met each other before now. (They ended up having fun!) Boca is a string of 65 islands of the eastern coast of Panama. One of its claims to fame is that non-Costa Ricans staying in CR for in excess of 3 months flock there for 48 hours so they can once againbe legitimate visitors in CR.
We took a shuttle from Playa Chiquita to the CR border. We were met by Sammy Shepherd whose sole job is to escort us across the border. First you go thru CR customs filling out forms. Then you cross a one lane rickety bridge built in 1908, banana trucks backed up at each end, that is largely loose planks with the river below (did I mention that the river is actually the border). We weren't sure the bridge would hold together long enough for us to cross. Next you are met by Panamanian police in camouflage carrying machine guns (they don’t have an army???) who kind of steer you to Panama’s customs, more forms and we leave a copy of our passports (?). Sammy earned his salary. Once in Panama, we were picked up by another shuttle who, 45 minutes later, drops us off at a river taxi for the trip out to Boca to meet our guide. So 3 hours later and 4 employees of the tour company we arrive in Boca Town.
Boca Town is kind of neat. Lots of reggae and what goes with it. Very colorful. Very vibrant. It was originally a town on stilts until in the early 1900’s, the United Fruit Company (Chiquita) filled in between the houses to reclaim the land from the sea. Our hotel was fine but basic, our guide was brutal. Anyway, we ate well, saw and swam and snorkeled at Starfish beach, looked for dolphin at Dolphin Bay but didn’t see any, saw sloths on an island and cracked up when our guide did his impersonation of a sloth swimming (you had to be there), went to Red Frog Beach where we were swarmed by a dozen or so indigenous kids showing us red tree frogs for a dollar and witnessed Arron and Ian triumph over the girls in a euchre match.

We LOVED Starfish Beach and Red Frog Beach- beautiful, warm, turqupoise, clear water
.Saturday afternoon, we retraced our route and were very pleasantly surprised by Shelley and gang having supper preparing on the BBQ.
  

Due to technical difficulties- we don't have high speed internet here- pictures will follow.  

Friday, February 11, 2011

Jaguar Rescue Centre

I have some good news for you. Today we have our very 1st guest blogger, Dave. He is much more eloquent than I am. So here goes:
A simple walk down the road turned into a marvelous encounter with Costa Rican wildlife.  This centre is dedicated to rescuing hurt or abandoned animals. They do their best to rehabilitate them and then release them into the wild. Our guide was passionate about his work and enlightened us with his knowledge. He said the low hydro wires which may be uncoated pose serious problems for monkeys, sloths and birds. We saw some in cages but many others with the staff.  Pictures tell the story best:

A baby sloth- so tiny and sweet



We went into a cage filled with baby monkeys. They climbed all over us- so cute! Here is Ian with one of the babies.



Every day the volunteers take the baby monkeys to the jungle to socialize with the monkeys who live there in preparation for their release. They call it the monkey walk.


A red eyed tree frog camouflaged on a plant

And now.....


Doctor David Doolittle (you know- "if you could talk to the animals...")
The sloths look wiry, sort of like a coconut, but are actually very soft to the touch. Shelley and Ian check them out.


Just hanging around.